Hanging a pre-hung doorDarkroomSource

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Building a Darkroom: Door

This is how I hung the doors on my darkrooms.

Contents

Tools
Materials
Construction
Making the door light tight

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Tools

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Materials

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Construction

Hopefully you're doing the framing before the drywall.
  1. On the instructions for the pre-hung door, it usually states the width and height of the opening required, if not, measure the door (with the jams in place) and add about 1/4" to each side.
  2. The 2x4 on the bottom of the wall needs to have a gap, as wide as the door opening will be, unless you want a raised door jam 1 1/2" above the floor (I don't recommend it, after working the darkroom for hours, it would be easy to trip over)
  3. On either side of the opening, flush with the edges of the bottom sill gap, and perfectly vertical (use a plumb bob if you don't have a long level), put studs. Toenail them in at the bottom, and drive through the top sill into the studs. (If you assemble this on the ground, you can drive through the bottom sill into the studs too) To make a real strong opening (not necessary) double stud the opening.
  4. Measure up from the bottom of the bottom sill the vertical distance for the door opening. At this point, on the studs on both sides of the door, mark a line which is the bottom of the door top sill.
  5. Cut a 2x4 the width of the door opening, and nail it between the two vertical studs so that the bottom of this sill is even with the two marks made in the previous step.
  6. Stand this wall up, and tie into the other walls, if you haven't already. It is very difficult (read impossible) to hang a door before it is vertical, the dimensions seem to change when you start moving the wall around to make it square.
  7. Starting with the jam that will have the hinges in it (or may have hinges already if you got the pre-assembled pre-hung door - smart move!), determine weather the top or the bottom should be against the 2x4 stud for the jam to be vertical and use one nail to hold it in place.
    Shimming is done by putting the thin parts of the shims into the slot between one piece of wood and the other, then sliding the two shims over each other until the right thickness is achieved. To remove the extra length of the shims, use a sharp knife to score one side and then snap the shim off (bend away from the score line), don't remove the extra until you are finished though, in case you need to make adjustments.
  8. Shim the other end to make the jam vertical, and put one nail through the jam, shims, and 2x4.
  9. Now move to the top door jam, make sure it sits flush with the first side jam you installed, and shim and nail that end.
  10. Make sure the jam is level, shim and nail the other end
  11. Now to the other side jam, align it at the top with the top jam, shim and nail in place.
  12. Making sure the jam is vertical, shim and nail at the bottom.
  13. Check the jams for vertical and level.
  14. Screw the hinges into the door.
  15. Screw the hinges into the door jam.
    Make a door holder upper. This is a screw driver or crowbar inserted under the door, setting on a piece of wood, to make a lever. You put wait on the end of the lever, raising the door to line up the hinge with the jam. Attach the top hinge first.
  16. Attach the door hardware, following the instructions that came with it.
  17. Check the door for fit and ease of motion. You might need to make adjustments to the shims at this point, once everything is in place, shim and nail along the jams at 1 foot intervals, being careful not to bow the jams in the process.

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Making the door light tight

This should all be done after the walls have been drywalled.
  1. Cut 1/4" (or 1/2") thick wood, as wide as the existing door seals, usually 1" wide, to fit around the jams, caulk and nail in place with the brads. The caulk will prevent light from leaking through the joints. I also, at this time, caulked the joints where the existing seal seats against the door jam, but only on the side the door does not touch.
  2. Apply the door seal foam to the door seal edge on the door jam that does not have the hinges, across the top jam, and then on the edge of the door where the hinges are. When the door closes the foam should be pressed between the door and the jams or seals, so that there is no light coming through.
  3. Cut the door threshold weather-strip so it is 1/2" longer than the width of the door.
  4. Peal off the adhesive backing, and apply the weather strip to the bottom of the door on the side that opens, so that there is a 1/4" overlap (or more) on each end, this will then overlap the walls by a fraction of an inch, blocking light in the corners, make sure the flexible part is bent slightly where it touches the ground.
  5. Put 3 screws into this weather-strip, one on each side of the door and one in the middle, still allowing the strip to overlap when the door is closed.

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Visitor Comments

The comments stated below are not necessarily the opinions of Andy Hughes or DarkroomSource

For space reasons I chose to use a pocket door when I constructed my space. I would recommend a pre-hung unit (mine came from a salvage yard). Pre-painting all the inside of the tracks and the pocket portion of the wall with flat black paint keeps the light out. The jambs were built-out with 3/4 inch stock to create a decent light trap. Again, black paint went into the channel. Non-light trap surfaces are a low-sheen white. I chose to build a raised channelled threshold on my concrete floor, but cutting a channel in a wood floor to recess the base of the door would be better ergonomics.

Since the door is not air-tight it helps with ventilation.
Contributed by   on 2002-07-08 00:00:00

I would like to see a picture or a front door frame. Mine was kicked in. I need to repair the side with the dead bolt. Thank you
Contributed by   on 2005-01-28 22:05:31

What kind of pictures are you taking that you need a deadbolt LOL. I have found some trouble with too light a pre-hung door. I suggest if you are making a permanant space to consider a metal door - with wood frame. The door will not flex against the seal (like mine does)
Anonymously contributed on 2005-03-02 16:27:40

The purpose of the deadbolt is not to protect your pictures, but to protect your children from the chemicals.
Contributed by   on 2005-03-03 11:05:27

i am not sure if you really have developing materials in your \\\'dark room\\\'
Contributed by   on 2007-01-24 19:45:36

Well, ofcourse you have chemicals in your dark room... how else are you going to develop the prints? You gotta do it in the dark son, either completely (color) or with a safelight on (B&W).
Contributed by   on 2008-03-28 08:54:56

does it really matter what\'s inside his darkroom. He can have anything he wants in his darkroom. Also, it is none of your business dentene what he has in his darkroom!! Don\'t you have a life?
Anonymously contributed on 2008-05-18 09:39:05

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